Amazing Thailand
( 24 May - 13 June
1998 )
Chiang Mai
Mae Hong Son
Bangkok part 2
Kanchanaburi
Koh Tao
Bangkok part 3
The 24th of May was finally the day to leave for my first backpacking holiday. A long standing wish could be realized: destination Thailand, necessities: a friend, Rob who came along, a ticket, passport and as little luggage as possible consisting of a Rough Guide, larium pills and some clothes.
I started with the larium pills against malaria a couple of weeks before despite moral objects against taking heavy medicine with a remaining risk of getting it after all.
We flew with Air Lanka in about 11 hours to Colombo on Sri Lanka and after changing plane we arrived 3 hours later in Bangkok. Read on to see what great stories you get told there in order to get you somewhere and which impressions i got from the country.
After reading a lot of stories on the net about the transport into town we decided easily on taking the train from the airport. Asking directions showed us the way to the airport hotel quickly and from there the signs were clear. Outside we got the famous kick from the temperature and humidity (it was about 38C, about 94F i think and a humidity of somewhere close to 90%). When we arrived at the little station about 200 meters outside the terminal we had to wait for the ticket-window to open and then we could buy a ticket for 5 Baht (that's about 0.12 US$, and 0.25 Dutch guilders). Very funny was that all the signs on the stain were only in Thai so on which side the train would arrive was a guess. Fortunately we met a Dutch guy who was there before and knew the way.
When we arrived on the station Hualamphong we were surrounded by tuk tuk drivers (motorized rickshaws) and taxi drivers of course. We decided before to go easy the first day and on the net i found and booked the Sawasdee Bangkok Inn near Kao San Road, the famous tourist ghetto in neighborhood of Banglamphu. After negotiating we took a cab for 125 Baht (about 3$) to the hotel. Looking backward that was expensive because later we took a tuk tuk for 60B. when we arrived at the hotel they couldn't find my reservation but they had enough rooms. after seeing the room we took a double, air-conditioned one for 450B (about 11$).
Rest of the day we didn't do anything because we wanted to rest a bit and get used to the heath.
We wanted to go with the boat to the Wat Phra Keo temple and the grand palace. In search of the boat we were searching along the river Chao Phraya (we didn't look at the map quite well) and somebody started talking to us. He said he was a palace guard and in good English he told us after informing where we wanted to go to that the palace was closed until 1.30 for a prayer service.
He gave us some other tips, like the Wat Indraviharn that's known because of the immense 32 mtr. high buddha statue. He offered to call a tuk tuk for us and to tell the driver where to go. Besides this he asked without attracting attention if we were interested in suites and that he knew a good store to buy them and he told us to check it out.
The Wat Indraviharn was really impressive because of the height and because it was the first Thai temple we saw. After that we went to the Wat Banjamabophit a much smaller temple but fun to see because it was quite different from the first one.
After that we stopped at Tommy's Fashion. They spoiled us with a cold coke, which was quite nice because the temperature was quite high that day. We had to look at a lot us pictures of suites and they showed some examples and a lot of materials. After some discussion about buying a suit or not because i didn't plan to buy something like that during my holiday they convinced me in buying one. The price was good, about 125$ but i regret it a little bit only because they convinced me in buying. After the whole holiday i think if i doubted a little bit more they might have gone down a bit on the price.
The tuk tuk driver stayed of course because he wanted his ticket for free gasoline that we got from the shop after buying. He brought us finally to the grand palace. At first we were walking around the park Sanam Luang a bit when a Thai approached us. He told us that he was for holiday here in Bangkok, he was a teacher and that he wanted to visit the palace also. The palace was still closed and because of that he wanted to visit something else first. He was with a friend from Bangkok and the friend would bring him with his car. He offered us a ride but despite his kindness we didn't agree to go with him.
After that we were approached by another tuk tuk driver who said also that the palace was closed but this time for the whole day and he wanted to show us other things also. Step by step we learned and after that we went to the entrance of the palace and of course it was open.
This complex contains the Wat Phra Keo and the palace. The Wat Phra Keo is easily the most beautiful and holiest temple in Thailand. It contains the most important buddha image, the emerald buddha that is supposed to originate from Sri Lanka and the 15th century. The palace and the temple are the most important tourist attraction in Thailand but are definitely worth it because they're beautifully restorated. The official, free English tour around the complex was difficult to follow because of the large group and the guide didn't speak English very clear.
When we finished the tour and were leaving the palace we were approached another time by a Thai. This time it was for a boat trip along the khlongs (canals). For 400 Baht (about 10$ 2 persons) we had the boat for ourselves. The price was a bit high for about 30 minutes but who cares when the view is nice and you're for the first time in a boat with an open car-engine as driving-engine.
We agreed with the boss that the boatman would return us to Banglamphu. He did as he didn't know about that deal and asked for another 40B per person. Deal is a deal so we didn't accept it and he dropped us at the original place. We went walking back and what got us surprised we were approached again by a Thai and again for buying suits. We had enough of it and politely we said yes we take a bus and might see the store and we took a tuk tuk and went back to the hotel.
We wanted to the day-train to Chiang Mai in order to see a bit more of the country. In the hotel we asked at their travelagency about the train-times and if we should reserve seats. First train leaves at 8.10 and reservations were not necessary at this time of the season. Alright we left the hotel at 6.45 and of course first the negotiations with the tuk tuk drivers. We agreed on 40B and that was a really cheap and sharp deal. He did it probably only because we were his first customer and the first one is said to bring luck.
When we arrived at the station we got directed to the right counter by 2 so called tourist guides. The man behind the counter couldn't sell us a ticket because the computer didn't work. We got suspicious (regretfully) and tried another counter but they gave us the same story. Then we got those guides on us again. They wanted to know where we went and if didn't want to go by bus. Eventually they talked in on some other tourists who went with them and we decided to follow and see what they offered. the offer was a bus-ticket for about 600B but then we had to go to the northern bus terminal and in the middle of the rush-hour that would take at least an hour.
We weren't happy on going with the bus for such a long distance so we decided to back to the station. We went to the information desk and there somebody told us in very good English that they expected the computer to work in about 15 minutes and the sale would go on. Fifteen minutes later, 7.40 AM already they started selling again and we bought immediately tickets because the next train would leave at 15.00 and we didn't want to stay waiting for that. We bought tickets for second class air-conditioned and paid 480B pp. (about 12$ for a distance of about 600 Km).
We were surprised to discover that they serve two free meals in the train for those tickets (1 warm and 1 with cake and a donut) with coffee or tea and a soda. I won't see the Dutch railways doing that. After 11 hours we arrived in Chiang Mai and of course we got people all over us again with the question where we wanted to go and they all suggested different guesthouses and hotels. Based on the Rough Guide we decided to try something different and went to the Montri hotel. The price was high and scared us a bit (750B) but it was a big and clean room with airco so for one time we decided to take it also because because we were tired from journey and we didn't want to go on searching at 21.00.
After arriving there we wanted to go out and eat something. Somebody of the hotel told us that there was a Buddhist festival, Wat Ithanakin going on in the neighborhood. Around the temple of Wat Chedi Luang was the festival and hundreds of people were offering and praying. Right next door at the Wat Pan Tao we met a monk, who liked to practice his scarce knowledge of English and that was nice, especially when he asked us if we believed in a god. When we told him we don't, he couldn't believe that's possible. Besides that he a very nice guy and told us some background about the temple and the people.
The next day we took a taxi to the Doi Suthep, a mountain of 1668 mtr just outside Chiang Mai and on this mountain you can find the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. A bit negotiating with the driver got us at 300B. The original chedi (stupa or central tower where the ashes of important deceased people is kept) of the temple originates from the 14th century. The temple is beautiful but the view over Chiang Mai is even better.
After an hour we went with the taxi to the Mon Tha Than Falls. That's a small waterfall halfway of the mountain. The driver tried to drive us to it, but got stuck 1 to 2 km. before thanks to the holes in the unpaved road. The falls were a bit disappointing but later in the rainy season probably better. Anyway it is at least a place were you won't find may tourists.
In the afternoon we took a tuk tuk to go the Wat Phra Sing, probably the most impressive temple in Chiang Mai. Here we met the monk again from the evening before and he told us some things about the painting on the walls what was quite interesting. After that we went to the Wat Chiang Man, the oldest temple and only the big elephant statues and the buddha's behind bars made it interesting. The tuk tuk driver almost begged us to go to his brothers shop next. Again clothes. Because he was a really nice guy and we had fun with him we went along but didn't buy anything.
Finally we asked him to drop us at the evening market. Here we got some clean t-shirts and blouses so our luggage expanded already. I looked for a (fake) Breitling watch but couldn't get it below 1200B. It told me that's their bottom price because they let me walk away. Negotiating about prices is quite natural and expected but i find it hard especially if you see sometimes that they seem happy when they sell you something even it's probably with a low profit.
After that we went to the pub (choice out of the Rough Guide). It was on the other side of Chiang Mai and was definitely a wrong choice because nobody was there. When you're in a hotel you should ask the people there what's popular and don't base it on 3 year old edition of a travel guide.
In Chiang Mai we decided to go to Mae Hong Son next, This is a little town in the north west near the border with Myanmar (Burma). We wanted a bit more nature and a small town and not to many tourists. We went by plane because we found out that's only 375B (almost 10$) for a distance of about 230 Km and 25 minutes flying and booked it through the travelagency in the hotel. When we arrived on the airport they had an information desk with somebody who had a list of all the guesthouses, location and prices. Very convenient because we could make our own choice and went directly to the Piya guesthouse in the center next to the little lake. The rooms were neglected but clean and for 250B a night per room quite alright.
In the afternoon we climbed the hill next to the village through an impressive amount of stairs. After almost 20 minutes and a lot of lost sweat you're on the top and the view over the village is magnificent. Also great to watch the planes landing a taking off from there. On top of the hill is the Wat Doi Kung Mu, a 19th century temple. When you go up a little bit more you'll find a new bot (central building of the temple) from where you have a great on the other side of the hill towards the hills in Burma.
We booked by the travelagency next to the guesthouse a sight seeing tour for the next day. In the evening we had dinner at the lakeside bar. Nice food, far too many Singha (local beer) a local band and a breeze over the lake made it a great place to stay in the evening.
Day 6 Mae Hong Son and surroundings
We asked to see something of the area and to go to some not very known tourist villages so not the "long neck" villages (the well known women with stretched out necks because of the 10 to 20 heavy rings round their necks).
Through some very steep roads we went by car first to Mae Aew. This is a village about 2 or 3 Km. from the border and is inhabited by Kuomintang Chinese people (they were driven out of China by Mao and a part came to Thailand and Burma, the rest went to Taiwan). The guy from the agency who accompagnied us told some interesting stories about this area and it's history. It was a part of the golden triangle and not so long ago they grew opium here.
After this village we went to another where hmong and shan people live. The hmong people originate from China and Mongolia and the shan people are originally from this area. We drank tea at the house of the head of the village. His daughter was a friend of the wife of the guy from the travelagency.
After the tea we went to the Pha Sua Falls, a nice but again quit fall that's probably a lot more exciting later in the rainy season. We finished the day at the Fish Cave. This is a typical tourist attraction because of a lot of fish come together at a cave where a river is coming down under a mountain.
We paid 700B pp.for the trip. This is not much but we didn't negotiate on the price. I don't know if that was possible because i have the feeling that is not appropriate to negotiate on such things just like food and drinks. Maybe it's my "decent" western mentality ? Anyway we had a nice day and the guy from the agency was good and very nice. Later that day we drank a couple of beers with him and his colleague and that was nice.
We decided to go back to Bangkok in one time because we didn't like staying in Chiang Mai again. Unfortunately it was not possible for us to go on a jungle trek so that's definitely a reason to go back here. Just to be sure we reserved a seat on the minibus for the next day (they have about 10 places) and we wanted to go by bus because the road was supposed to be spectacular to drive.
Day 7 from Mae Hong Son to Bangkok
The bus left at 8 in the morning and did the trip to Chiang Mai in 6 hours (240km). Nice surroundings but it was a tough trip because it was very warm and the slopes on which the driver raced were very steep. The bus ticket costed 180B pp.
When we arrived in Chiang Mai we took a tuk tuk to the train station and there the first train was to leave at 16.40. We took second class tickets with sleeping berths. In the train the waiter convinced us to take a three meal course of 150B. Later i saw single meals ordered by Thai people so there must be another menu to order from.
At night you have to watch your stuff a little bit but everything went alright. We arrived the next morning at 6.00 AM in Bangkok.
Another reason to go back to Bangkok is that we had to fit the clothes we bought. We went back to the Sawasdee Bangkok Inn because we like it the first time. It wasn't a problem at all to get a room there at 6.30 AM. After a shower and breakfast we went to the store. Of course first a bit negotiating wit some tuk tuks. When we told that we wanted to go that store they offered the price of 20B if when we went to another store as well. We didn't manage to find one for a reasonable price that didn't asked to go to another store.
After fitting the clothes we made the appointment that if they didn't hear from us they would deliver the clothes at the airport because we didn't know by then when we would be back in Bangkok. When we left the next store the tuk tuk driver said he wanted to go to another store because they didn't give him enough gasoline tickets. We had enough of this bullshit so we stepped out along the way and walked away with paying him only 20B.
Fortunately we passed the TAT (tourist information) office and we finally got a map of Bangkok because we were lost a little bit at that time. When we walked back through Banglamphu we were approached again and this time by somebody who told us to go to the Thai export center because accidentally they were open for public just this day and they would sell good quality suits for good prices. Also this story sounded very convincing but we didn't fall for it. Slowly we were getting enough of all those stories and started to ignore them.
When we returned in the hotel i took a massage for the first time in my life. One hour was 120B and i liked it a lot.
In the hotel we managed to get a brochure from the travelagency with the times of the trains leaving southwards. The first train to Kanchanaburi left at 7.50 and only two trains a day go so we took this one because the other leaves late in the afternoon. We took a tuk tuk to the boat and there we went with the boat for 1B across the river (the Thonburi station is right on the other side). The train had only 3th class seats and we paid 25B pp for that. It was 133 Km and it took the train 3 hours.
Already in the train people of the guesthouses approached us. We ignored them deliberately and when we arrived we took for 20B a samlor (rickshaw) and went along some other guesthouses. The first one we didn't like and the second one, the VN guesthouse looked a lot better and there we stayed.
Kanchanaburi is famous because of the "bridge over the river kwai" but we went first into the center to visit the Jeath museum. I read about this and it would be the most impressive museum. After quite a long walk we found it at the other side of the center.
The museum is a replica of a bamboo hut from one of the camps. All the photos, drawings and newspaper articles give a realistic view about the life in the camps and made a big impression. Entrance to the museum is 30B.
When we were outside somebody approached us another time and asked us if we were interested in a boat trip to the Chungkai cemetery, the Wat Tham Kao Poon and the bridge. We wanted to got the bridge anyway and that's on the other side a few km outside the town we agreed on a price of 300B.
I found the Chungkai cemetery quite impressive because it is well taken care of and the line on the stone in front of the cemetery is good " their name liveth for evermore". On this original cemetery Dutch, English, American and Australians are buried.
The Wat Tham Khao Poon is a temple with the most important attraction a holy cave and it was a bit disappointing. After the temple the bridge and as expected not really spectacular and only interesting because everything that happened here.
When we walked back to the guesthouse Rob started to complain about headache and fatigue. He went straight to bed and slept until the next day without eating anything. I stayed at the guesthouse that night, had a wonderful pineapple curry (40B) and talked with some other tourists. Evenings are very pleasant there because of the cooling wind that seems to be always there on the side of the river.
Rob was still feeling not good and wanted to go to the hospital as a precaution. There they did a blood test and didn't find any trace of malaria (normally malaria has an incubation time of at least 7 days). They did find something like a virus but couldn't identify it and because he had fever they wanted him to stay for one night to see how his situation would develop. The virus probably causes a kind of influenza. When i walked back to the guesthouse it became clear that Kanchanaburi is developing in a big town. The hospital was quite new and looked good.
I didn't do much that day, went back to the hospital that afternoon and in the evening i went with the Englishman i met the night before to the apache saloon. An expensive bar with a band but we didn't stay for long.
Day 11 Another time Kanchanaburi
Rob was released from the hospital but because he wasn't really fit we stayed at the guesthouse. There we met a French family that was travelling already for 6 months with two children. They started in Zimbabwe then Australia, Malaysia and finally Thailand. They recommended us to go to Koh Tao. At night i had another wonderful curry. Only for the food i can recommend the guesthouse already but despite that at night it's wonderful along the river thanks to the wind.
After recommendations of the Englishman and the French family we decided to got to Koh Tao. We took the local, non airco bus to Ratchaburi and in about 3 hours we arrived there. Here we had a couple of hours before the first train in the direction of Chumphon would arrive.
We spent part of the time by going to a bank because the weekend was approaching and we were going to an island. After about 15 minutes walking from the train station we arrived by the first bank. Here we got a lot of attention either because they're not used to tourists there of because of us terribly sweating. It was really hot there that day. Anyway it was the way they helped us because in no time they offered us tissues to dry our faces and gave us some cold water. Beside that we got the best exchange rate ever in Thailand.
At 15.40 the train left for Chumphon. We only were able to get 3th class tickets of 121B. That's really not much for a distance of 370 Km on tough wooden benches but of course there's no meal included. We were the only tourists in that part of the train but came in touch with some Thai people soon who i think enjoyed the possibility to practice their English and for one time didn't want us to go somewhere like buying clothes.
The train took about 6 hours to Chumphon and there we went for a restaurant first. Right across the train station is the Puen Jai restaurant. With a big sign they attract attention for selling boat tickets as well. We wanted to take the night boat at first which would leave around midnight. Ok, we thought that's a good combination but food they did sell and tickets they didn't. Besides that the restaurant was probably a brothel as well because of all the women that were walking around there.
The people in the restaurant directed us to a travelagency about 1 Km further in the same street but that was already closed of course. Some friendly neighbors brought us to the Mao guesthouse next. The owner, a very friendly woman persuaded us to stay for the night. On the other she would have brought us to the boat as well at 23.00 PM because she sells tickets for all the boats as well. The ticket for the express boat in the morning was 400B transport included and that boat makes the trip in about 3 hours instead of the 6 hours for the night boat.
Already on the boat we were approached by people from the island to stay with them. When we arrived more people were there to talk us into their accommodations. We decided to check out the place where the French family stayed but when we took a taxi (here they had only pickups) and saw it we didn't like it all because you had no view on the beach and all the bungalows were standing close to each other in a circle.
At the port we were approached by an Australian guy who was very nice and had a quite new resort called "Coral View resort" and because he didn't push us into going there we decided to go for it. A small problem was that the taxi couldn't bring us because you need a 4-wheel drive to get there and those, they don't have on the island. We went back to the port because i left his card there with his phone number. Luckily the card was still there and when we phoned him he asked us to go to the another resort in the bay before and there a boat would pick us up. Walking was possible also from there but with luggage i wouldn't recommend it because of the steep hill in between the bays.
The resort is on the southside of the island and in a bay full with coral. They have a restaurant along the hill with a great view of the bay. Right across they have nine bungalows with limited view on the beach but beautiful located between palmtrees and in a nice condition. The price for nice place was good, 250B per bungalow, excluded the very good kitchen. Disadvantages they have of course also, because they have power until the generator runs out of diesel in the night and that meant the fan doesn't work much and it's hot in the nights.
Another consequence of the generator became clear in the morning they couldn't make fruit-shakes because the generator still had no fuel. This day was dedicated for the rest to snorkeling. In this bay the neighbor rents fins and snorkel and i tried to hire both but he only had small fins so i had to do without them.
The bay worked out to be a great place for snorkeling because about 5 mtr from the shore the coral already started and i was surrounded by all kind of fish. With some sun that day i had a lot of fun and a reasonable sunburn on my back.
The bay doesn't have a great beach because there is a lot of coral washed ashore and you can't swim very well because of all the coral. The next bay on the other hand is a great place to swim because it only has coral on the sides and is really small and beautiful. We had to walk across the next hill and in about half an hour we arrived there. A bit disappointing was that there was a big speedboat in the bay with about 20 people who occupied the small because. But we were lucky because almost 15 minutes later they all left.
We are not really the beach types so we went to the only village on the island, Mae Haad. Through a very steep climb we arrived walking in one hour and 15 minutes in the village. We had enough of travelling and thought it was enough on this island so we decided to go back to Bangkok. Here we booked the boat and the train. They both worked out to connect very well. The travelagency could get us the train-ticket the next morning. In the village it was even possible to send email although it is expensive compared to Bangkok. Here i paid 50B for sending two short emails offline and no possibility to read email.
The boats worked out a bit confusing because two small open speedboats leave on the same time on both sides of the pier. We were in the wrong one and the people of boat discovered that minutes before leaving by checking our tickets when we sat already on board. Fortunately we were just in time for the other boat.
The boat was just out of the bay and we discovered how rough it can be. There was not much wind and the waves were small but the boat came down quite hard on those waves so i got afraid of getting seasick but fortunately it became calmer later. The boat took 2 hours to get us to Chumphon although normally it takes about 1.5 hour and we paid 250B for it. The train we booked left about 45 minutes after we arrived and we still had to go to the train-station so we had about 10 minutes left when we got there. We paid for the train-ticket 550B and that was quite much because some other people that came with us from the island managed to get one at the station for 390B.
Around 19.40 PM we arrived in Bangkok and went to the same hotel again. I could finally read my email and we could watch the first game of world soccer championship that night. People in Thailand are real fanatic soccer fans so it was possible to watch it in every bar and restaurant.
We took the boat for 5B to Chinatown. After two weeks in Thailand we were finally able to resist all tuk tuk and taxi drivers and we walked to the boat stop about 10 minutes from Kao San.
I loved Chinatown. All market for kilometers long in small streets and alleys. We looked here for camera-lenses and they were also a lot cheaper but with some effort we were not persuaded to buy again. Of course it happened to us also that we got lost but with some asking and searching we managed to find the boat relatively easy.
Again we took the boat this time to raise the cultural level of our stay a bit. We went to the vimanmek mansion that's an old summer palace from the king that was located on Koh Si Chang. They took it apart and rebuild in in Bangkok. The palace is completely made of teak wood and you can't find metal nail in it. They used only wooden nails.
Besides the palace we saw some other interesting building. Most interesting was the photo museum where they exhibited quite a lot pictures taken by the king himself. Here you get to know a bit the person who is so important for the country. Besides photography he seems to be fond of making music because we saw pictures of him playing saxophone and piano.
On the way to there we had to walk quite a bit from the boat so on the way back we tried to look for a previous stop. We didn't succeed to find it so after some walking the surrounding looked familiar and it became clear that we were already in Banglamphu and walked the rest also.
It was the day before we had to leave so the rest of the day we spent the rest of our money on buying more clothes and then i found that the prices on Kao San are even better than Chiang Mai. Furthermore i took the last opportunity for a Thai massage again.
Day 20 National museum and departure
Unfortunately we had to leave this day but our departure time from the airport was 22.30 PM so we still had the whole day. Now we got used a bit to Bangkok we went walking again and this time to the national museum. The museum was about 10 minutes from Kao San Road. It is a quite large museum with a lot of different things to see. I found it a bit disappointing because i found it confusing how it was organized and the emphasis is mainly on the last century. Altogether it was worth the visit after all and they do have some interesting things to see,
On our arrival we took the train into town and that we liked so we took the train back to the airport also. Concerning the distance and the possibility of traffic-jams and maybe not to many trains to get onto it is a good thing to take your time to get to the airport. We had no problems at all. We left the hotel at 16.30 and about 2 hours later mainly because we had to wait 45 minutes for the first train to leave we arrived on the airport. The flight was alright despite a 3 hour delay in France because of repairs to the plane.
I find Thailand a beautiful country. People are very nice but very eager in making some money out of you and that makes it difficult to know if they mean their friendliness or not. The suspicion you get is not nice but necessary and i don't blame them. It's their way of living, their country and in their conditions i would probably have done the same.
Furthermore i liked the way of travelling very much. In Thailand it is excellent possible to travel without reservations and organized trips. In three weeks i spent almost the same as three weeks in Spain ( I included the flight that was a bit cheaper than normal) so my choice is made i want to go back another time to Thailand.
Another thing that i noticed was that it is probably the best time to go because it was quiet and we hardly had any rain. The busiest time is from November until January (coolest time also) and the most rains falls from July until September.
The second time we were in Bangkok i had enough of the pollution and the heath and wanted to leave the city as soon as possible. Eventually the 3th time i enjoyed the city because it has a lot to offer and to see and after some days you get used to the smell and the heath.
At the moment of writing this it's almost 3 weeks ago that we returned and i'm already thinking about my next holiday. I definitely want to go backpacking again. Because of my holiday i had to do a lot of catching up on my Spanish course and that gave the decision to go to South America again next year.
One last thing i have one larium tablet to go and i still sleep lousy every night. I didn't have a good feeling about this heavy drug when i started taking it because it doesn't give a high, reasonable protection but now having these side-effects i think this i probably the last time also that i take it.
The decision to call 1998 "Amazing Thailand" year for promotional reasons was for me reality.
Last changed: 18-10-98
© 1998: Jeroen
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